Talk about a barrel of a woman
that some say has a heart of gold while others might argue she
is the queen mother of a scorpion. Well her name is Flordesita
but everyone calls her quite simply Flo. Day in day out seven
days a week she runs a small non distinct ‘cool spot’
along the side of the road around milepost seven on the Southern
Highway in the village of Jacintoville just north of the Toledo
District seaside town of Punta Gorda.
I first met Flo about three years ago as of this writing when
I rolled my bicycle in off the road one blazingly hot tropical
sun day. I had been working a piece of property I owned in the
shadows of a handful of locals and was on my way back to PG
where I had rented an apartment for my family of three for a
month to determine just whether or not Belize was our cup of
tea.
At the door to the refuge in the shade I was longing for that
January day I was met by a big smile from Flo, a woman in her
mid thirties that is of East Indian descent as are the majority
of the villagers in this particular village. Jacintoville is
a great place to live if you are a local, it’s a challenge
of a place if you have arrived from afar.
Flo’s mother had owned land on both sides of the road
long before the government of Belize ever contemplated paving
the dirt. In the early days Flo’s mother made her money
that she in turn provided well for the family off the soldiers
that occupied Belize when it was still a western Caribbean colony
of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and referred to as British
Honduras. Back then the family worked together under the watchful
eye of the matriarch that most considered a very good business
woman.
Now at just past the dawning of the 21st century in a country
that only won it’s independence from England a little
over twenty years ago Miss Flo was at odds with her brother
that also ran a small ‘cool spot’ directly opposite
her location on the highway. Back then the brother’s place
consisted of a thatched roof champa with a way serious lean
to the logs, a pool table with several balls missing and a Belikin
beer cooler that was unplugged half the time to save on the
bill for current.
As for Flo’s place, well she had a real cool place complete
with concrete flooring and uncoloured siding with a metal zinc
roof. The toilet when I first arrived was a door less outhouse
without the capacity to flush. By the time I celebrated my fiftieth
birthday there, the bathroom had moved indoors, though still
within seeing distance of the old place that many a local still
used until Flo decided she had had enough and had her son Baron
tear it down, less feeling in the hole in the ground. Many a
times we would sit there together Flo and I as she allowed me
to buy round after round after round for she and I as we watched
with a discerning eye as the Maya would fall prey to a little
cash and too many cervezas as they made their way back to their
village from market day in town.
About the time Flo and I had a slight falling out she decided
to boost her business she would buy a karaoke machine. In her
mind as well as that of a another son she had that lived up
in Dangriga they decided that the cure to their economical problems
was that which just about every independent bar owner in Belize
would agree, a karaoke machine.
So together Flo and Lawrence decided to compliment the large
cooking grill that laid idle out back next to the defunct outhouse
they would buy a portable and user friendly karaoke machine.
Flo’s philosophy was clear, she could barbeque chicken
parts or pig loins on occasion as her son matched song lyrics
for a price to drunken patrons that found comfort and solace
in a place where one could get blistered and still lean up against
a bar.
And different from her brother’s place, well Flo always
had cold beer for sale. Many a trucker and local business man
would stop in for the shade and the comfort of conversation
as they made their way up and down the paved tarmac of the Southern
Highway, plying their way for trade from PG to Independence
to Dangriga to Belmopan and to points unknown.