They can be
found in the north, they can be found in the south. They come
from the east and equally from the west. They come in all sizes,
from short and stocky to tall and thin. They can be of either
Mestizo persuasion or Garifuna, just as easy they could be on
East Indian descent, Creole, Mopan or Q’ecki Maya.
Of course most are men but some in their growing ranks are
indeed women. When you get right down to it the one thing that
binds them all together, they are well trained, certified and
registered by the government of Belize. In fact, one might even
consider them a national treasure. For they are of a legion
of their on, respectable and admired by many, revered by most
for their local knowledge of birds and archaeological sites
and factoids about the land by the Caribe sea.
Card carrying members of a group of smiling faces, they are
referred to quite simply as the tour guides of Belize. The Belize
tour guides are paid to watch your ‘six’ while you
and your love ones are out and about adventuring in the spoils
of paradise. And as the news reports depict openly from the
traditional media to the Internet ‘bloggers’ weighing
in on issues concerning Belize, these days they are especially
earning their dollars the old fashion way, one Belizean dollar
that is the equivalent to fifty cents on the US dollar at a
time.
Difficult as it is to talk about the realities, discussions
are increasing from both the expat community that are earning
a dollar on the sly in their retirement here and there as well
as the Belize Tourism and the BTIA members. With the recent
attacks on tourists and their Belizean guides in the Mountain
Pine Ridge region of the Cayo District, paradise is again under
the microscope.
The troubling realities have many asking questions, while others
try their best to detract the public from the harsh realities
of the rising tide of crime in Belize. Indeed some of the local
tour booking agents seem to make like of the alarming reality
of jacking of tourist as recently reflected in one of the popular
forums where expats gather to discuss everything from cooking
recipes to retirement options to the over zealous Christian
schools to high crime and misdemeanours. One well respected
online chatter that books tourist to remote lodges and adventure
destinations throughout Belize wrote regarding the attacks in
the Pine Ridge region of Belize’s Cayo saying, “Bottom
line, would I drive to and spend the night at a lodge in the
area tonight? Yup.”
But the actual statistics as presented on well respected Belizean
authority Lan Sluder’s ‘Belize First Magazine’
website (www.belizefirst.com) tell the real truth of the signs
of the times that many seemingly wish would simply fade away
with the sunset. Mr. Sluder is a well respected monitor of the
trends in Belize and the author of countless guidebooks. As
Mr. Sluder writes, “More than eighty tourists, plus many
Belizeans, including tour guides, have been robbed or attacked
in the Mountain Pine Ridge and nearby in the last year. At least
one American tourist and one Belizean guide were shot, at least
two were sexually assaulted, and the others were robbed, intimidated,
and in some cases physically attacked.”
The situation in Belize has become so dire that the US State
Department recently issued a travel warning for tourist contemplating
venturing into western Belize. The number of incidents of crime
against tourists in the last twelve months speaks volumes.
June 2, 2006: Late in the afternoon of June 2, bandits hit
Black Rock Lodge, a jungle lodge in a remote area above the
Macal River. Reportedly there were no guests at the lodge, but
the bandits, who likely are the same ones responsible for other
attacks in Cayo, took valuables from the lodge, including BZ$9000
in cash, a laptop computer and weapons.
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June 1, 2006: On the afternoon of June
1, a total of 19 tourists in four different vans were stopped
and robbed near Teakettle village
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May 14, 2006: A dozen tourists and three
Belizean guides are stopped and robbed on the road to Caracol.
One American tourist is shot, and two tourists are sexually
assaulted.
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April 14 and 28, 2006: Up to 20 tourists
and four Belizean guides were stopped and robbed at Rio Frio
caves and elsewhere in the Mountain Pine Ridge.
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February 17: A Belizean guide, a number
of hotel employees, and 16 tourists are robbed at the Banana
Bank Lodge near Belmopan. The guide is shot in the hand.
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November 2005: Buses are hijacked on the
Georgeville Road and on the Hummingbird Highway. Many Belizeans,
including school children, are robbed.
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October 2005: At least four vehicles, including
two Bowen & Bowen trucks, are stopped and robbed between
Miles 21 and 24 of the Hummingbird Highway.
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August 13, 2005: A dozen tourists and a
Belizean guide are stopped and robbed en route to Caracol.
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July 3, 2005: A van full of tourists, and
a Belizean family in a car, are stopped and robbed at Rio
Frio caves.
It should be noted that there were numerous others crimes within
Belize against tourist, from the murder of a young female backpacker
in Indian Creek in the Toledo District to countless burglaries
in all districts with Placencia reporting invasions almost daily.
So, one might reasonably ask just what does this all have
to do with the tour guides of Belize?? It has everything to
do with the challenges they face. It’s one thing for an
expat or a Belizean to sell a package of adventure to a family
of four from Boise or Tupelo or Charlotte or Taos to trek into
the bush to witness firsthand an ancient Belize Maya site. It’s
entirely a whole other can of worms to insure that roving gangs
of AK 47 toting thugs want single out the female travellers
in the group and rape them at gun point.
BELIZEmagazine.com respects the challenges facing all concerned,
from the BTIA members to the government ministries of Belize
to the independently licensed and often under funded tour guides
of Belize to Belizean society as a whole. Belizean Prime Minister
Said Musa, when questioned about the recent spate of attacks
in the Mountain Pine Ridge, responded by saying, “We had
a special cabinet, when we consider this whole issue of crime
as it affects tourist but also the increase of violence that
is affecting our entire population. We are taking steps to strengthen
the capability of the Police Department, whether it be terms
of mobility, whether it be in equipment or whether it be in
man power. But also to involve more the community and also to
deal with some of the root causes of crime. I don’t think
we should adopt an attitude that people commit a crime because
of so and so, in other words there is no excuse for committing
a crime. But at the same time we have to look at the root causes,
how these things come about? What is propelling people to want
to commit a crime? It is not all just evil, in other words,
that is the large part of it but also we must look at the social
conditions. The issues of unemployment and the issues of more
healthy activities in sports, recreation, and culture, all these
things need to be looked at. We need to look at crime and at
the root causes of crime. Yes, we have been very concerned with
the incidents in the Banana Bank Ranch, in Caracol and in the
Chaa Creek, all over, and who knows, they will probably move
to some where else. What I am saying is that, I believe they
are imports, I don’t believe that it is Belizean people
committing these crimes. We have been working closely with the
Guatemalan government on this, as well as the Mexican government
and with all our neighbours in dealing with Trans border crime.
That is the new phenomenon, because of proliferation of small
arms, firearms. Many of these people are soldiers who have been
retired from the army and of course have kept their weapons.
So we have a lot of guns out there that we have to deal with
and lot of very dangerous people and I am not trying to create
an alarmist or a panic situation, but it is a great concern
to government. We have been working nationally, as well as internationally
and regionally with our partners to address this.”
As most citizens and residents understand clearly it really
gets down to the bottom line issue of funding to fight the problem
of crime in Belize. And in a country already struggling to stay
financially afloat, the problem is likely to get worst before
it gets better. The reason being, the gangsters are no longer
satisfied to simply jack a van full of tourist for watches and
cameras and handfuls of spare change. With the recent straight
on attacks at the Banana Bank Lodge only a dozen or so miles
from the Belizean capital of Belmopan and the assault on the
Black Rock Lodge just up the Macal River from San Ignacio, the
stakes are higher and the bandits realize where the real booty
can be found.
So the next time you find yourself on an organized adventure
trek in the wilds of Belize, listen closely to the advise from
your licensed Belizean tour guide. Also remember at the end
of the day to tip him well. For the only thing that might someday
be standing between you and a crazed thief with an automatic
weapon might just be your tour guide in Belize.
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