For
most visitors to Belize, there is barely enough time during their
once in a lifetime adventure to see all that the country has to
offer, much less a few extra days left over to allow for a road
trip. But to the locals and expats that call Belize their home,
after you've been to San Pedro for diving off the reef, lunched
over a meal at Rasta Pasta on Caye Caulker, hiked about the prominent
Belize Maya sites, tubed a cave or two or paddled one of the numerous
rivers like the upper Moho or the lower Rio Grande, visited the
Baboon Sanctuary and the Old
Belize Museum and the Belize
Zoo, you start to look across the borders for some new diversions.
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From
anywhere in Belize you can catch a bus to the northern Belizean
town of Corozal, then hop the borderline either by taxi or bus
to the town of Chetumal, Mexico. You can actually catch a direct
bus any day of the week from Belize City all the way to Chetumal
and once there, you are off and running. Departing the bus station
in Chetumal, well I like to catch the regularly scheduled 'directivo'
that delivers me and my backpack within about four hours to a
small hotel in the town of Playa Del Carmen. Although I love the
Belizean beach that defines the Placencia Peninsula and though
I think there is not a pretty stretch of sand in the Caribbean
than you'll find offshore Toledo District on Snake Caye, I have
to admit that I love to get up to Playa Del Carmen.
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In Playa as the locals refer to the once small fishing village
that now is the hub of the famed Mayan Riviera, you have countless
restaurants offering every type of cuisine from sushi to pizza
to Spanish 'paella' to tacos to cheeseburgers to filet mignon.
All along the beach there are oceanfront bars that offer buckets
of ice cold 'cervezas' during all day 'happy hours' where Mariachi
bands play traditional Mexican songs for tips. The beach is
crowded and rightly so, for the white sugar sand is ever so
inviting as it blends into the turgouise blue water, a vision
that is simply stunning.
I have been travelling to Playa for many years now, so I have
lots of people that I have befriended over time. And although
I first met up with Pia and Thed from Sweden that own and operate
the La
Rana Cansada Hotel & Bar via a complimentary room they
extended to my wife and I back in 2001, I always go back to
'the sleeping frog hotel' because no other place in Playa Del
Carmen exemplifies to me such genuine hospitality. The margaritas
are to me the best in Mexico, the staff always somehow remembers
my name, and best of all, each time I have visited La Rana I
leave with new acquaintances. Of course, the rooms are no longer
gratis to this traveller and though I always try my best to
remember to pay for my margaritas since Thed always seem to
give me a new t-shirt, somehow Thed lets a few slide my way
for free.
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Thed
and a friend at the Bar 'La Ranita' at La Rana
Cansada, the Tired Frog Hotel in Playa del Carmen,
Mexico |
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During my last road trip to Playa Del Carmen, if it had
not been for Thed and Pia at La Rana Cansada, I would
not have been able to connect to AllTourNative
Expeditions. The way it all started, I was talking
with Thed about my desires to go to the remote Mexican
Maya archaeological site of Coba and climb Nohoch Muul,
the tallest pyramid in the Northern part of the Yucatan
Peninsula. I was at odds with myself and the local bus
schedule as I tried to figure out a cost effective way
of travelling to the site located back down towards the
Belize-Mexico border, That's when Thed wiped out his cell
phone, punched in a handful of digits, asked a few questions
from the person on the other end of the line, and then
turned to me and simply said, can you be ready to hit
the trail to Coba tomorrow morning?? |
I have to admit I do not like the structure and patience required
of a tour, much less the 'blah, blah, blah' that most tour guides
force upon you as they regurgitate patented recital that bore
this traveller to tears. That said, AllTourNative is just about
the best outfitter I have ever had the pleasure of trekking
with. I put them equal to my absolute favourite trekking company
in the Himalayas, www.FirstEnvironmental.com
who are located in Kathmandu, Nepal. To this day I get personalized
emails from their owner Nava Raj wishing me sincere 'Namaste'
from the land of Sagamartha, the Nepalese name for Mount Everest,
the tallest mountain on the planet.
AllTourNative was formed in 1999 by a group of young Mexicans
who followed their adventuring dreams. They employ multi-cultural
guides to insure that language does not become a barrier
for the adventurer. The adventure I went on combined a
trip to the Archaeological site of Coba with a zip line
run through the jungle canopy and a repel off a cliff.
AllTourNative insures that their clients learn something
about not only the archaeological site, but also about
the Mexican Maya people, as you share time and experiences
over local dishes prepared and served under the shade
provided by a traditional thatched roof palapa champa
with Maya villagers. The end of the day has you and your
fellow trekkers saluting the end of the day with a shot
of local tequila, before you are delivered back to the
doorsteps of your Playa Del Carmen hotel. |
And if you are a diver, Playa Del Carmen is very convenient
to the dive sites to be found in the waters off the island
of Cozumel. It is easy enough to catch the hourly ferryboat
that departs the dock in Playa for Cozumel that is literally
seeing distance from the beaches of Playa on a clear day.
Once on Cozumel, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon
the Hotel
Flamingo and Dive Center. Operated by an expat named
Thomas Fryer who hails from San Francisco, the small boutique
hotel provides great food, comfortably clean accommodations,
an amazingly accommodating staff and it is located less
than a city block off the often touristy boardwalk most
frequented by the scores of cruise shippers that descend
upon the island of Cozumel almost daily. Thomas Fryer
is a diver at heart and I can assure you that he can provide
the very best local advice. He will also be able to point
you in the direction of Sergio Sandoval Vizcaino, owner
and dive master of Aquatic
Sports Cozumel. Sergio will take you the must dive
sites in the waters off Cozumel. Sergio has been diving
since 1966 and has recorded well over 5000 dives. He will
take you to some his favourite dive spots like Santo Rosa
Wall, Paso Del Cedral, Mantarraya, Silent World and the
Palancar Caves, Palancar Horseshoe and Palancar Dropoff
to name just a few. |
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Images
of the underwater world near Cozumel, Mexico |
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Although there are lots of Diamond shops, souvenir stores and
timesharing hawkers that make walking along the boardwalk of Cozumel
challenging, one of the real bonuses I discovered while overnighting
at the Hotel Flamingo is the reality that instead of turning right
out of the front entrance of the property, turn left. That will
allow you to walk away from the hordes of tourist and into the
neighbourhoods that gives you a taste of the real Mexican culture.
In fact, once I changed directions, I found Cozumel to be a wonderful
place, literally filled with side street restaurants and friendly
locals that give you a since of what the island is really about.
At the end your road trip from Belize up the Yucatan to Playa
Del Carmen and Cozumel, you are likely to return again and again. |
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